![]() In the Japanese delicacy shirako (literally white child), the milt is often served in its sac with ponzu sauce. Most of us are happy to stick a tub of that in our shopping basket – but we tend to steer clearer of fish sperm (also known as milt or soft roe). If it is from carp and mixed with bread and olive oil, it's taramasalata. And why not? Caviar consists of stugeon roe, and the roe from grey mullet or tuna is Sicilian caviar (bottarga). Herring and cod roes are becoming increasingly popular, thanks to chefs such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who uses them in pâtés and spreads. "But there is a general squeamishness about fish in this country, which makes people shy away from offal such as monkfish, mullet and cod livers." "It is regarded by chefs as the foie gras of the sea because of its soft creamy texture and slightly saline taste, which is unique and delicious," he says. As chefs are keen to point out, the fresh version of fish liver is far more palatable.Īt Seahorse, his restaurant in Dartmouth, fish chef Mitch Tonks pan-fries monkfish liver with shrimps or leeks and cream, or serves it cold with sweet peppers and chilli. Indeed, there may be some work ahead to erase negative childhood memories of being force-fed cod liver oil for its high level of vitamin D. ![]() It wasn't always thus: as Roux Jr points out, fish offal "was commonly enjoyed in the UK in medieval times, but seems to have gone out of fashion". Intestines are steamed with egg, and bones are used to make stock.īut in the UK, we're lagging behind. In China and other parts of east Asia, every little bit of the creature is used, from fish lips braised in sauce to the skin, deep-fried and served as a side dish in noodle shops. In Portugal, fish-head soup is a national dish, and the same ingredient is frequently served in curry sauces in India. In Norway, cod tongue is extremely popular. I also like to use cod tongue and throat." Monkfish liver is popular in Iceland and Spain, and has long been a delicacy in Japan ( called ankimo), served in miso soup or steamed. "Fish offal is consumed readily in France," chef Michel Roux Jr points out.
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